NASA

Climb Mt. McKinley with Dr. Chip!

Join an actual expedition up the summit of Mt. McKinley with Claude (Chip) McMillan III, Assistant Professor of Education, University of Alaska Fairbanks. His series of 30 photos will amaze you!

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Mt. McKinley in the Fall

Mt. McKinley in Denali Park viewed from northeast. The Muldrow Glacier is coming out from between the north and south peaks towards the viewer.


Beginning of an expedition up Mt. McKinley (elev. 20,320 feet or 6,158 meters). Photo near Wonder Lake (elevation 600 meters) which is about 45 air kilometers from the summit of Mt. McKinley.


McKinley Expedition Begins at 600 Meters (2,000 Feet) and 30 Miles Away

We have 45 kilometers plus 5,500 meters (18,200 feet) of elevation to gain.

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Ironically, this is the most dangerous part of the entire expedition. Not on this day, but on the return trip crossing this river 28 days later, all 15 members of the expedition were washed away by the current.


Crossing the McKinley River

Everybody lost their packs and washed up on gravel bars in various places downstream.



Confluence of Traleika and Muldrow Glaciers

This is crossing McGonagall Pass. It's leaving the world of life, of green, and entering the world of rock and ice. The Traleika and Muldrow Glaciers are merging at this point here.

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Looking up the Muldrow Glacier towards McKinley, in the center of the photo is the north peak and behind, appearing lower but actually higher, is the south peak.


Muldrow Glacier and Mt. McKinley

Looking at the Muldrow Glacier, one can see the lower ice fall and the upper ice fall where large crevasses are visible.


Seen here is part of all the food and fuel that was mushed in by dog team in March. This photo was taken in June so all of these large tubs were full of food.


Nine Hundred Pounds of Food and Thirty Gallons of Fuel

It was a total of 900 pounds (410 Kg) of food and 30 gallons of fuel. We're laying all the food out to decide when to eat what type of food and who's going to carry what.

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Supply Drop Made by Dog Team

A dog musher (not the same one who mushed the food in but one like him). It took him 18 days round-trip to mush the supplies in.


Looking up right at the lower ice fall up at the north summit of McKinley and the cloud there is shaped like a lens, fat in the center and narrow on the edges.


High Wind Over Mt. McKinley

This particular type of cloud is called a lenticular cloud and indicates very high wind. So, even though it was calm where we were, one could expect very high winds on the summit.

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A very small crevasse right next to the camp. This is the perfect sort of toilet on a glacier. It's just like a toilet in Africa or South America or someplace with just a hole in the ground. We dug a pit down into the glacier to give people privacy.


Glacier Toilet

You go down there, do your business, and simply take out a chunk of snow from the side of the wall there, use that as toilet paper, and chunk it all down into the crevasse when you are finished. It's very convenient.


The hole where one of our climbers fell into a crevasse.


Hidden Crevasse Where Climber Fell

The crevasse was completely covered by snow and there was no evidence at all that there was a crevasse there. He took one step and fell in. It was quite a big crevasse. He was uninjured. We were able to pull him out.

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Seracs on the Muldrow

Looking down the Muldrow Glacier. Fairbanks is in the far distance, about 240 kilometers away. These very, very large blocks of ice in the middle foreground are seracs. Seracs are commonly found in steep ice falls on a glacier.


A view up towards Karsten's Ridge going up McKinley. It's the narrow ridge in the back. This slide was taken at about 3,030 meters and some orange wands are visible in the middle foreground.


Karsten's Ridge

In our camps, we always delineated with wands, posting them all around the campsite, showing where it's safe to walk. We have this 10 meter long metal probe that we poke down into the snow looking for crevasse. Once we do that we feel it's OK to walk around the camp but you're not allowed to walk outside of the wands.

A previous expedition on McKinley, a person took one step beyond the wand perimeter in order to urinate. It was a fatal mistake because there was a crevasse there. He fell 20 meters and was never pulled out. This particular camp here in this photo is interesting because I was the person probing. I had probed the whole camp and felt very comfortable with it and we were all set up. Then we decided we needed more space so I probed further outside of the camp and discovered a very huge crevasse. It apparently went right underneath our camp. I didn't detect it because here was some kind of ice lens over the crevasse where I was poking. We decided it was safe and stayed there that night even though there was a large crevasse running right underneath my tent.

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Expedition Moving Up to Karsten's Ridge


Moving Up on Karsten's Ridge

On Karsten's Ridge moving up, there is quite a steep drop-off in both directions.

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Wind Walls Around Camp

This is our camp on Karsten's Ridge. We dug a trench and built large walls around the camp to protect us from high wind.


Looking Down on Karsten's Ridge

Visible behind the cornice is a little spot on the ridge. That spot is the camp shown in the previous slide.

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Back at Karsten's Ridge

Back at the camp looking up at Karsten's Ridge. There's a rope team visible about half-way up the ridge.



Browne Tower

Moving up below Browne Tower. Now we're leaving Karsten's Ridge and paralleling the Harper Glacier.

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How you take a break when you're moving on a glacier. You need to be roped up at all times. We moved in teams of three roped together. You must have the rope extended and taut at all times. You can't have any slack in the rope. If your rope team ever move together on your rope and one of you fell into a crevasse without having the rope extended, you would fall 15 meters. So you need to have the ropes taut.


Taking a Break in a Crevasse Field

Your teams must also move perpendicular to the direction of the crevasses. If you walk parallel to the crevasses, even with all three of you roped together, it's possible all three of you could fall into the same crevasse at the same time. If you're moving perpendicular to the crevasses, that won't happen.


How you eat when it's very cold out. This was about 25 below zero Fahrenheit (-32 degrees centigrade) and your colleagues sort of huddle together like emperor penguins.


Dining at 25 Below Farenheit

We're all sharing some sort of hot drink and our faces are quite close to each other.

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Leaving the 4,550 meters camp heading up to 5,150 meters. The north peak is visible on the right. One can see a light, tannish color rock which is granite capped by a dark black rock which is shale. Shale is deposited in flat, low-lying swampy sorts of areas and it shows in this slide how McKinley, although it's now 6,158 meters tall, used to be a low-lying swamp 30 million years ago.


Granite Meets Shale at 5,760 Meters

So, where McKinley now sits used to be a completely flat, low-level swamp. Plate tectonics has resulted in McKinley being uplifted 6,000 meters.



Breathing Hard and Moving Slowly

Expedition at about 5,150 meters reaching our high camp. People walk and breathe differently at this high elevation.They walk very, very slowly and breathe very, very rapidly.

So, if you could be standing here watching these people move, they would be taking a second between every step and breathing four or five times between each step.

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High Camp at 17,500 Feet

This shows the platform we built out of the snow, and below that, the kitchen area. You can also see the wands that mark the boundary of the camp.



Glacier Kitchen

The kitchen area you carve out of the snow. You make a platform for your stove and pots. You can dig little shelves for each of your pots and basically customize your kitchen any way you want. You'll notice there are little blocks of snow that serve as a wind wall around the stove and pots.

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I'm standing there with the blue and red shoulder jacket and I had just carved out a bench to sit on. The moment I was finished, everyone sat down and left me with no room to sit. We were discussing whether or not we were ready to go for the summit.


Who's Ready to Try for the Summit?

The issue is, that if you take a day of rest, you will certainly be stronger when you make the summit attempt. However, you never know what the weather will be. If the weather is good, you really should go for it.

So, we were debating whether to go for it or to take a day of rest. As it turned out nine of us decided to go for it and we made it. The six who decided to take a day of rest were unable to make the summit the day after because a storm came in.



High Wind at 5,760 Meters

Us at about 5,760 meters looking back at the north summit with all the shale on the top. It's difficult to tell from the photograph, but the wind is very high, probably a constant 40-50 kilometers per hour. I was completely flattened once by the wind.

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Mt. Foraker Viewed from Summit Ridge

Mt. Foraker Viewed from Summit Ridge: On the summit ridge at 6,060 meters looking at Mt. Foraker in the background.



Hauling Out Garbage

Hauling Out Garbage: Dr. Chip back at about 1,000 meters elevation heading out. We were very careful to have minimal impact on the environment so we hauled out all our garbage. I'm pulling a sled full of garbage.

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McKinley viewed from the Eielson Visitor's Center in Denali Park to show that the Muldrow Glacier (middle of photograph) looks just like tundra!


Muldrow Terminus Covered with Vegetation

The terminus of the Muldrow is moving so slowly that the gravel and rubble on the surface of the glacier are supporting soil development and the growth of vegetation. This is actually a glacier in the middle of the photograph but you can't tell because it's covered by vegetation.



Moonrise Over Juneau Icefield

The Juneau Ice Field with the moon rising.